Places & Food
Haebangchon's Sinheung Market: Tortoise Mochi Pancakes and Décalcomanie's Honey Cod (Location and Hours)
AT A GLANCE
- Area
- Sinheung Market area, Haebangchon, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
- Tortoise
- 81 Sinheung-ro (1st and 2nd floors), 12:00–21:20 (per listings)
- Décalcomanie
- 97-4 Sinheung-ro, 1st floor of Sinheung Market; lunch 11:00–14:30, dinner 17:00–20:30, closed Mondays (2023 info)
- Signature dishes
- Tortoise's mochi souffle pancake; Décalcomanie's Uiseong garlic honey cod
- Waiting
- Décalcomanie uses the Tabling app for its waiting list
- Check
- Hours and prices can change
I visited Sinheung Market in Haebangchon, Yongsan, Seoul. Among its shops, I went to Tortoise, a cafe known for a pancake wrapped in mochi (rice cake), and Décalcomanie, a restaurant whose signature dish is honey cod.
Both are on Sinheung-ro, and Décalcomanie handles its waiting list through the Tabling app. I visited both, so here are the locations, hours, dishes and what to know before you go.
The hero image is my own photo with hand-drawn lines and writing added. The photos in the article are also my own.
Why is it called Haebangchon?
Haebangchon sits on a steep hillside below Namsan. After liberation in 1945, refugees from the north, people returning from abroad and Korean War evacuees settled here and built a village of shacks, and it came to be called Haebangchon (“liberation village”). Seoul Media Hub (in Korean), Wikipedia.
Sinheung Market opened in 1953 as a daily-goods market for the neighborhood. It declined after the 1990s. Today the old dark roof has been replaced with a clear membrane arcade (called “Seoul-chaeng”) that lets sunlight deep into the alley, and old shops sit beside new ones.
Inside, the little alleys are full of charming shops, which makes it a fun place to enjoy a different kind of atmosphere.
The entrance sign. The number 1953 stands out.
Murals and string lights line the alley, so just walking through is fun.
Pipes and lights tangle above the alley.
On the way out, a sign says “안녕히 가십시오” (goodbye, take care).
1. Tortoise (토터스) cafe
- Location: 81 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (listings differ on 1st and 2nd floors versus the 2nd floor only)
- Hours: 12:00–21:20 (per Diningcode)
- Signature: Mochi souffle pancake
Tortoise is known for Japanese-style souffle pancakes. Listed mochi souffle pancakes cost ₩14,000 for matcha, ₩13,000 for tiramisu and about ₩18,000 for peach or mango. An americano is listed at ₩5,000. Menus and prices can change.
What I had was a pancake wrapped in mochi. A white mochi covers the pancake, with one strawberry on top. It came on a tray with iced coffee.
One thing I found cute: the buzzer is a turtle. When your food is ready, the buzzer that alerts you is a small turtle plush, matching the cafe’s name. The chunky little buzzer was so cute that I liked the thoughtful touch. It is a green plush with a shell pattern, and it is cute to receive.
Mind the stairs to the 2nd floor. There is a 1st floor, but to reach the 2nd-floor seats you carry your food up stairs, so be careful with the tray.
2. Décalcomanie (데칼코마니) restaurant
- Location: 97-4 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, 1st floor of Sinheung Market
- Hours: Lunch 11:00–14:30 (last order 14:00), dinner 17:00–20:30 (last order 20:00), closed Mondays. This is from a 2023 review, so it may have changed.
- Signature: Uiseong garlic honey cod
The sign reads “Restaurant / Cafe / Rooftop.” I did not see a rooftop, so I guess there is one. Haebangchon has many rooftop spots with a good view of Namsan.
That day I ordered the set menu for two: pork neck sous-vide steak, basil pasta, honey cod and two ades (fruit sodas).
The honey cod came as a golden-baked fish on tomato sauce, topped with rosemary.
The other dishes were of course very good too, but the honey cod is the one I remember most. It was my first time eating the combination of sweet honey, tomato and cod, and I could feel why it is the signature dish.
You join the waiting list through the Tabling app. Tabling lets you register in line from your phone, and you get an alert as your turn gets close, so you do not have to stand in line. Check the app for availability before you go.
Before you go
- At Tortoise, mind the stairs to the 2nd floor.
- At Décalcomanie, install the Tabling app beforehand.
- Hours and closing days differ by source, so check a map app or the official Instagram (Tortoise).
- The market alley is narrow and sloped, so comfortable shoes help.
Who it suits, and who it does not
A good fit
- You like walking through an old market alley mixed with new shops
- You are looking for a dessert cafe with a mochi pancake
- You want to put your name on a waiting list from your phone
Not a great fit
- Steep alleys and stairs are hard for you
- You must eat at a fixed time (Décalcomanie is listed with a break between lunch and dinner)
FAQ
What kind of neighborhood is Haebangchon? A hillside neighborhood below Namsan. People who settled here right after liberation gave it the name.
Where is Tortoise? 81 Sinheung-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul.
Do I need to book Décalcomanie? The waiting list is on the Tabling app. Check the booking method before you go.
When did Sinheung Market start? It began in 1953 as a daily-goods market for local residents.
More to read: the Hapjeong photo booth and Hanjeongseon, the fruit mochi shop with long lines.
Checked on October 2, 2026. Hours and prices can change.